The next stage of this project is to build the frames that sit between each drawer. These create a shelf that the drawers will sit one as well as provide the structure which holds the two sides together into a carcass. Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear that I recorded this step so I’ll explain as best I can.
Each frame is simply a platform that the drawer will ride along. However, to minimize material usage and keep the weight light, the design calls for these to be built like a frame instead of a full platform. The way I accomplish this is to build out a four sided frame using mortise and tenon joinery. If you glance at your kitchen cabinet door, you’ll notice that the door is built much like a large picture frame with a thin panel in the middle. I’m building these in a similar fashion, but without the panel. The front and rear rails will contain the mortises, while the shorter rails on the sides will have the tenons. Unlike your cabinet door, the long rails will need to extend past there desired length to join with the carcass sides. I kept my boards all rough lengths well oversized and chopped out the mortises with a measured distance between them. When it comes time to join them to the sides, I will cut them accordingly.
Since I did not record any of this process, I don’t have much in the way of visuals to accompany this. Suffice it to say, 12 mortises and 12 tenons can take awhile so I made sure to measure and mark everything as accurately as possible and chop and cut with care. One thing to note is that the side rails need to be a little bit shorter to allow for movement of the carcass sides so I made my measurements assuming a tight frame and just reduced their markings by a fraction of an inch. I will be able to show more on this come assembly time.
With frames done, I can start working on the sides. These two panels have been cut to size and planed smooth. Next step is to cut out the dado joints that the frames will sit in. There are three frames so there will need to be three dados per side. There are multiple ways to cut a dado. Smaller ones I would simply use a chisel to chop out the length and a router plane to clean up the resulting channel. Since these dados are much longer and need to be very straight, I opt for a guided saw method. In this case I mark out each dado using the respective frame piece that it will join to. I then plane a long piece of scrap nice and straight to act as a guide or fence. I place this and clamp it down right along the dado knife line. I use my tenon saw and I begin sawing along this guide fence keeping my eyes on the kerf and the contact with the fence. When I am done, I move the fence to the other side of the dado and saw again.
With the dado cuts made, I’m left with clearing out the channel. I use a chisel to chop away the majority of the waste and then settle on the router plane to clean up the base of the channel. When the dado is finished, I grab its corresponding frame piece and attempt a dry fit. This frame rail is actually intended to be a little loose in this dado so a very tight fit is not desired. I found that I had a couple tight fits so I chose to take a few shavings off the frame rail until it fit a snug with a little play in it. Five more to go.
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